Key West

Moved over to Key West old town harbour last Thursday, and here thru Monday.  Tristan joined us Friday night, and left early Monday to get a flight back to his work location near Atlanta.

Key West has many stories, but probably the most important to its development is the Florida East Coast Railway, which extended the railway 150 miles from Miami to Key West, in the early 1900's, over what they called the Overseas Railway.  Difficult building conditions and numerous bridges required almost 7 years of construction time. At first one's thoughts are how could the promoter have thought that could be economic.  But in the context of the time, with the planned opening of the Panama Canal, the connections to the closest US port, and the importance of a growing tourist class to bring to the related luxury hotels (a la CP and the grand hotels across Canada), the undertaking becomes comprehensible.  

Key West was the largest city in Florida in the late 1800's, and the wealthiest city in the US on a per capita basis, with a thriving economy based on ship salvage and wrecking, turtle harvesting, sea sponge harvest, cigar making, fishing, large naval base and shipping trade. The result was the construction of many beautiful homes to house the wealthiest residents, and many more "Bahamian-style" homes for the bulk of the population.

Unfortunately, the big hurricane of September 1935 brought the end of the railway, and with the emergence of cars, the rail bed and bridges were paved over and became the Overseas Highway.

Saturday we toured the Truman "Little White House".  Truman started coming here in 1946 for the winter to address his health issues.  He liked it so much, he came back every year of his presidency, and a few times after.  His doctor prescribed a shot of bourbon every morning, and a brisk walk!

One of the other stories of Key West is Hemingway, of course.  He came here first in 1931, ostensibly for a short visit with his second wife, Pauline.  They liked it so much, they also stayed.  As a successful writer by then, and with help from Pauline's wealthy uncle, they occupied one of the finest houses in Key West.  He wrote 70% of his books here, including For Whom the Bell Tolls, the Snows of Kilimanjaro, and many others. We visited the house and enjoyed seeing the history of his time there, and for Judy, the six-toed poly-dactyl cats, of which there are 55, and they have their own vet. 

He moved on in about 1939, when he married his third wife, Martha Gelhorn,  Great movie out on this relationship, by the way, Hemingway and Gelhorn.

Weather here is spectacular.  High 70's, generally clear, very occasional over night shower, and light winds.

Lunch was at First Flight, again, the original Pan Am offices.  Enjoyed a flight of beers.

After lunch, we took advantage of Tristan being here with a car, and did a provisioning run, and then some time at the beach at the Southernmost point in the US.  

Evening, after very nice dinner on the boat, we walked Duval street area in old Town, and did a bit of a bar crawl   Our choices were based on the quality of music.  Started at Hank's bar for bluegrass style, then to Sloppy Joes's (Hemingway's famous hangout), then the original Sloppy Joe's location just to see it, and then back to Sloppy Joe's for the party.  I think there was a bit of dancing at most locations.  Oh yeah, and then walking back to the boat, stopped to enjoy a R&B band at Schooner Wharf cafe.  

Sunday was a much more leisurely day, with some walking, shopping, boat maintenance, and then Happy Hour at Commodores Boathouse for half price beer and appy's.  

So consistent with Truman and the Hemingway's, we also have enjoyed Key West, but will be moving on today (or tomorrow), as we start our slow trek north.